All of us has been in this situation. You're in the chair, your barber asks what guard you want on the sides, and you have absolutely no idea what any of the numbers mean. So you say "whatever you think looks good" and hope for the best.
Sometimes it works out. Sometimes you walk out with sides way shorter than you wanted or longer than you expected. Either way, you still don't know what the numbers actually mean.
It's not complicated. There are basically four guards you need to understand. Once you know what each one looks like, you can walk into any barbershop anywhere and tell them exactly what you want.
The Quick Answer
A 1 guard is about 3mm. Almost skin. Very short.
A 2 guard is about 6mm. Short but you can clearly see the hair.
A 3 guard is about 9mm. The most popular "short but not too short" length.
A 4 guard is about 12mm. Noticeably longer. Medium short.
That's it. Each number up adds roughly 3mm of length. The difference between each guard is small but very noticeable when it's on your head.
Guard by Guard: What Each One Looks Like
The 1 Guard (3mm)
This is the shortest guard most guys use. It leaves a thin layer of hair that you can see but barely feel. Run your hand over a 1 guard and it feels like very fine sandpaper. Smooth but with the tiniest bit of texture.
From a distance, a 1 guard looks almost skin. Up close you can see short, stubble-like hair covering the scalp. It's not a buzz cut (that's usually no guard or a 0), but it's close.
Who uses a 1 guard: Guys who want very clean, sharp sides on a high contrast fade. The transition from a 1 guard to longer hair on top creates a dramatic difference that makes the top look fuller by comparison.
What it looks like after a week: It grows back fast and starts looking fuzzy and uneven. A 1 guard needs touching up every 1-2 weeks to stay sharp.
The 2 Guard (6mm)
This is the sweet spot for most guys who want short sides without going skin close. It's short enough to look clean and intentional but long enough that you're not back in the shop every week.
A 2 guard feels like a very short buzz. You can run your fingers through it slightly. It has enough length to catch the light and show texture, unlike a 1 which is mostly flat.
Who uses a 2 guard: Guys with medium to high contrast fades. People who want short sides but don't want to maintain a 1 guard every week. The most common side length for standard men's cuts in Toronto.
What it looks like after a week: Still looks clean and intentional. Starts needing a touch up around week two when it gets uneven.
The 3 Guard (9mm)
The most popular guard in Toronto barbershops. A 3 guard is the default "short but comfortable" length that works for almost everyone. It's short enough to look sharp but long enough to have real texture and movement.
Hold up three fingers side by side. That width is roughly how long a 3 guard leaves your hair. It's noticeable, has dimension, and looks good without requiring constant maintenance.
Who uses a 3 guard: Guys who want a balanced cut without extreme contrast. People who don't want to come in every week. Anyone who wants their sides to look neat without being razor close. This is the "I want it short but not too short" guard, which means if that's what you've been saying to your barber, a 3 is probably what you actually want.
What it looks like after a week: Still looks great. A 3 guard holds its shape longer than shorter guards because the length masks uneven regrowth better.
The 4 Guard (12mm)
A 4 guard is where things start feeling longer. It's not long hair by any means, but compared to a 1, 2, or 3, the difference is obvious. A 4 guard has real texture, movement, and dimension. You can style it slightly.
Hold up your index finger from tip to first knuckle. That's roughly the length of a 4 guard.
Who uses a 4 guard: Guys who want a low contrast taper instead of a sharp fade. People who prefer a more natural, less dramatic difference between top and sides. Anyone growing their hair out who wants the sides to blend more gradually.
What it looks like after a week: Barely noticeable regrowth. A 4 guard can go 3-4 weeks between cuts without looking unkempt.
Guards Above 4: When It Gets Longer
Most guys stick between 1 and 4, but guards go higher.
A 5 guard is about 16mm. A 6 is around 19mm. A 7 is about 22mm. An 8 guard is roughly an inch. Once you're hitting 5 and above, you're in territory where the sides have real length and the cut starts to feel more like a longer style than a short one.
These higher guards are used for guys who want a very subtle taper or are growing their hair out and just want the sides evened up without taking much off.
How Guards Work Together in a Fade
A good fade doesn't use just one guard. It blends multiple guards together to create a smooth transition from short at the bottom to longer at the top.
A typical fade might start with a 0 or 1 at the very bottom, move to a 2 in the middle, then a 3 or 4 closer to where it connects to the top. Your barber is switching guards and blending between them to create that seamless gradient.
This is why fades take longer than a standard cut. Your barber isn't just picking one number. They're building a transition between several numbers and making sure each one blends into the next without visible lines or jumps.
If you want a high contrast fade, you're looking at a big jump between your lowest guard and your top length. If you want a subtle taper, the jump is smaller and the guards used are closer together in number.
How to Use This Information
Next time you sit down, you can actually have a real conversation about your cut.
If you want very short, clean sides, tell your barber a 1 or 2. If you want short but not razor close, say a 3. If you want the sides to blend more gradually and not be dramatically shorter than the top, say a 4.
If you're not sure, ask your barber to show you. Most shops have reference photos or can show you on their phone what each guard looks like. Some will even buzz a small spot on the back of your neck at a specific guard so you can feel and see what it's like before committing to the whole cut.
The point isn't to become a hair expert. It's to stop guessing and start communicating. One number is all it takes to make sure your barber gives you exactly what you want every single time.
The Common Mistakes
Asking for a 1 when you mean a 2. A lot of guys say "make it really short" and mean a 2 or 3. A 1 is genuinely very short. If you've never had a 1, ask your barber to show you before committing.
Thinking the number is the same everywhere. Guard sizes are standardized across most clipper brands, but there can be small differences between manufacturers. A 3 guard on one brand might be slightly longer or shorter than a 3 on another. Your barber knows their clippers. Trust their judgment if you tell them the number and they suggest adjusting slightly.
Forgetting that guards only control the sides. The guard number is for your back and sides. The top is a completely separate conversation about inches and how much to take off. Don't walk in and say "I want a 3" expecting that to cover your entire head.
Book your appointment today at any Rendezvous location. Next time you sit down, you'll actually know what the numbers mean and can tell your barber exactly what you want. No more guessing, no more hoping it turns out right.
