A very good chance you buy whichever one is on offer, use it for a week, and decide beard products don’t do much. Usually the problem isn’t the product. It’s that the product doesn’t match the beard.
At Rendezvous Barbers, this comes up constantly, and it comes up more once the cold weather arrives and beards start to feel dry and itchy. Here’s what each product does, who should use which, and what to do if you’re dealing with flakes.
What beard oil does
Beard oil is a blend of light oils, such as jojoba or argan, that soak into both the hair and the skin underneath. It’s thin, absorbs quickly, and leaves a light finish.
Its main job is conditioning. It softens the hair, reduces that wiry feeling, and keeps the skin under the beard from drying out. It doesn’t hold anything in place, and it won’t shape a beard. Think of it as a moisturizer for your face and facial hair.
It suits short to medium beards and stubble best, and anyone who wants a natural look with no stiffness. If your main complaints are dryness, itch or coarseness, start here.
What beard balm does
Balm starts with the same kind of oils, then adds butters, such as shea, and usually beeswax. The result is thicker and more solid, closer to a paste than a liquid.
It does two things. It conditions, and it holds. The wax gives the beard some structure, so flyaways stay down and the shape stays put through the day. It’s especially useful for tidying stray hairs and keeping edges neat.
It suits medium to long beards, thick or coarse hair, and anyone with a beard that sticks out or curls in odd directions. On a very short beard, balm can feel heavy and greasy, and it doesn’t have much to hold onto.
The short version
Oil is for the skin and the feel of the beard. Balm is for the shape. If you can only buy one, pick based on length:
- Stubble to short beard: oil.
- Medium beard: oil, or balm if it’s unruly.
- Long or coarse beard: balm, ideally with oil underneath.
Using both together
Plenty of guys with longer beards use both, and it works well. Put oil on first to condition the hair and skin, then use a small amount of balm on top to shape and hold. Oil goes deepest, and balm sits on the surface.
If you’re only going to do one step, oil does more for the health of the beard. Balm is the extra layer for styling.
How to apply them
For oil, wash your beard first and pat it nearly dry, because it absorbs best on slightly damp hair. Use a few drops. Rub them between your palms, then work them through the beard right down to the skin. Comb through to spread it evenly.
For balm, scoop a small amount, about the size of a pea for a short beard and a bit more for a long one. Warm it between your hands until it melts, then work it through from the roots out and shape it with a comb or brush.
Start small with both. Too much leaves the beard greasy, and it’s easier to add more than to take it off.
Why winter makes beards worse
Toronto’s fall and winter are rough on facial hair. Indoor heating dries the air, cold wind strips moisture, and scarves and toques rub against the beard all day. The skin underneath gets tight and dry, and the hair gets brittle.
That’s why a routine that worked in August can stop working in November. If your beard feels rougher or itchier lately, the weather is a likely cause. Our beard survival guide covers more on winter care, and the same dry-air effect on the scalp is in our post on itchy scalps in fall.
What beard dandruff actually is
Flakes in your beard look like dandruff, and most of the time it’s dry skin underneath. It happens when the skin loses moisture and sheds in small white flakes that get trapped in the hair.
Common causes include:
- Hot showers that strip oils from the skin
- Washing with body soap or harsh shampoo instead of something gentler
- Dry indoor air and cold weather
- Not moisturizing the skin under the beard
- Product that isn’t being washed out properly
How to deal with it:
Wash gently. Use a mild beard wash or gentle cleanser a few times a week instead of every day, and keep the water lukewarm.
Reach the skin. Work oil all the way down. Putting it only on the surface of the hair does nothing for the skin that’s flaking.
Exfoliate lightly. A soft brush or a gentle wash a couple of times a week helps lift dead skin without scrubbing.
Rinse well. Leftover soap and product can irritate and leave flakes behind.
Comb or brush daily. It spreads oil and helps dislodge loose skin.
When it’s more than dry skin
Some flaking comes from a skin condition, such as seborrheic dermatitis, which a doctor can identify. If the skin is red, inflamed, very itchy or sore, the flakes are heavy or greasy, or nothing improves after a couple of weeks of gentler care, see a doctor or dermatologist. We’re barbers, not doctors, and persistent cases deserve a proper opinion.
Picking a product
Check the ingredients. Look for simple oils and butters and avoid heavy fragrance. Strongly scented products can irritate sensitive skin, especially in winter.
Patch test. Try a small amount on your jaw first, particularly with new products.
Match it to your beard. A product that’s great for a long, coarse beard can ruin a short, fine one. Don’t buy on marketing alone. Our post on what product labels mean covers what to ignore.
Don’t use hair pomade. Pomade is made for the hair on your head. It’s heavier and can clog the skin under your beard.
Common mistakes
Using too much. A beard that’s shiny and stuck together has too much product on it.
Applying to a dry, dirty beard. Products work best on a clean, slightly damp one.
Only oiling the surface. The skin underneath is what needs the moisture.
Skipping the trim. Product won’t fix split, scraggly ends. A regular shape-up matters more than anything in a tin. Our beard maintenance guide covers how often.
Expecting balm to fix a bad shape. It holds a shape. It doesn’t create one. For that, you need a proper trim.
Does grey change the answer?
Often, yes. Grey beard hair tends to be coarser and drier, so it benefits from both oil and a little balm for control. We cover that in our grey beard post.
The Bottom Line
Beard oil conditions, and beard balm shapes. Short beard and dry skin, go with oil. Longer or unruly, add balm. And if you’re seeing flakes this winter, the fix is usually gentler washing and getting moisture down to the skin.
Not sure which one your beard needs? Book your appointment today at one of our five locations in Toronto. We’ll look at your beard, tell you honestly what it needs, and keep it sharp all winter.
